The migrant hustle
Kat Logan
I create ‘cake art’ for a living.
This calamansi buttercream painting is created in my signature impressionist style. The orange coloured citrus fruit stands out brightly against the green leaves as it would when it’s ripe and ready for picking.
This is exactly how I remember my childhood tree.
We had the biggest calamansi tree in our backyard and I always looked forward to picking the fruit when it was ready. It felt like we had an endless supply of it in our wicker basket in the kitchen.
As I painted this cake, it gave me some space to reflect on how I got here: painting cakes, owning my own business, working in the creative sector and food industry.
I’m a second-generation migrant Filipina and the co-founder of Buttercream Bakery based in Sydney. I wear the hat of Chief Cake Designer.
It was definitely not the first career path that came to mind as an Asian kid, growing up in Penrith, deep in the western suburbs of Sydney.
I loved art.
But creative work wasn’t part of the aspirations that my migrant parents instilled in me and my three siblings. While they never pressured us about grades and school, I know that they hoped we would get ‘good paying jobs’ that would allow us to survive in the world on our own one day. Creative arts, unfortunately, is not really known for giving you financial stability. And my hood is more famous for ‘battlers’, not ‘artists.’
Business was also not something my siblings and I grew up thinking we could easily get into. We were in between being working class and middle class — comfortable but not comfortable enough to have a large amount of cash to throw at a risky venture.
Ultimately, I did manage to pursue my creative interests by becoming a graphic designer after finishing school. I thought it was a pretty good compromise between being ‘arty’ and being ‘practical’.
But after working in this space for 5 years, sometime in 2009, I had a crazy idea to start an online business with my brother.
I need to take you back for a moment. It was the noughties — everyone was going ‘online’. MySpace. Facebook. Pinterest.
We decided to take a chance on this wave.
I drew inspiration from my side hustle. I had become an avid weekend baker, thanks to my Tita Grace who taught me how to make and decorate cakes when I was young. I honed my skills via my very large extended family, where there was a birthday almost every weekend. Meanwhile, my brother was working in IT for a small family-run computer business and had learnt a thing or two about running your own gig.
Our idea: boutique cakes, ordered online, delivered to your door.
Back then, ten years ago, food delivery was associated with fast food like Pizza Hut. It was not cool or trendy at all.
But still I hoped that we were onto something.
We set up in my parents’ garage and my brother used his very small savings to buy an industrial oven. We started with novelty birthday cakes, then added other fun items like cake pops. Our whole catalogue was online. No shop front except for the occasional stall at the local mall, which wasn’t nearly as normal as it is now for small artisans.
Then stylised events really started taking off with the internet spawning food and party bloggers, so demand grew. It was all very exciting but it took a while for me to eventually take the big leap and leave my stable job where I was beginning to establish myself.
Coming from a big tight-knit Filipino family and community really helped us grow our business in the beginning. We would get a lot of help from our aunts, uncles and cousins, from rolling cake pops or delivering cakes to selling at markets for us. They spread the word about our business to their friends and colleagues, and will still recommend us whenever they get the chance.
Our business was built on the support of our family and community who wanted to see us succeed.
The experience has really helped me understand what being Filipino means to me: valuing my culture, traditions, and my family, and bound up with this is knowing how to work hard and overcome adversity.
When we started out, it was not always easy being Filipino in spaces we were working in.
The creative scene and food and hospitality scene was very white.
We felt the pressure to always add a white person to anything we were doing publicly, like a stall or expo. We were worried that a brown Asian team from the western suburbs was not ‘mainstream’ enough.
And a lot of our customer base was in the more affluent white neighbourhoods. It was initially intimidating for me to have to work with them as I was anxious if my work was good enough for their tastes.
You find many Filipinos in the hospitality industry, working behind the scenes in restaurants, hotels and events, but their essential work is rarely celebrated by the industry. Even more, we’re hardly recognised as being business leaders or creatives. My brother, to this day, is still regularly mistaken as being ‘just the delivery driver’.
When I started experimenting with ‘cake art’ a few years ago, we amassed a large Instagram following and it led to a few features in magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. We opened a cake studio, which started popping up on a few Sydney ‘it lists’.
It was at this point that we felt brave enough to introduce Filipino flavours into our menu like ube, leche flan and pandan.
Today, these flavours are everywhere on Australian TV food shows and inside trendy bakeries. And now we talk about calamansi as maybe being ‘the next big thing’.
It shows that the scene has changed so much from when I began my journey.
The creative face of Australia is changing. It’s not so white anymore. It’s a little more brown.
I hope there will be more Filipinos venturing into the creative sector and food industry in the future so we can show how talented we are and how good our food is. And I hope that those of us established in the industry will help push them forward.
Kat Logan is co-founder of Buttercream Bakery, a boutique cake studio based in Sydney. Her cake art has been featured in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Good Food Magazine, Oprah Magazine and many others. In 2017, her small business success story, driven by social media, was featured in a national campaign by Vodafone. While her global fan base call her a cake boss, her biggest fans — her two kids Sebastian and Brooklyn — just like to call her Mama.